Retraction Calibration

  • Published on Nov 7, 2017
  • Basic Stringing test:
    Videos that might interest you:
    Extrusion problems
    Cura 3 - How To Examples
    How To Dismantle The Hot End
    Top 5 Features Cura 3.2
    How to Clean a 3D Printer Nozzle
    Cura Time Saver Setting
    Ok another helpful calibration you can do with your printer is the retraction, let’s see how.
    Ok first, what is the retraction? Retraction happens when the head needs to move from point A to point B without extruding any plastic. What happens is that the filament is retracted by an amount in millimeters so that it doesn’t drop everywhere during the move.
    And you can have too much retraction or not enough. Here is an example of no retraction at all:
    - As you see the strings between the two towers, this is plastic oozing out because of the pressure buildup in the head, when the head moves from the left tower to the right one and vice-versa.
    Now let's see what too much retraction does:
    - There are gaps between the layers, and it has no structure to it. It is easily breakable.
    And finally when the retraction is just right:
    - You see no oozing, the part is mechanically robust, and plastic is showing outside the towers.
    You have to do the test yourself. You sure can find some settings for your printer on the internet, and start from there and do your test.
    I will link to the .stl file on Thingiverse in the description so that you can do this for yourself. It takes not much time to print. And this setting can help printing when needing a lot of retractions steps.
    Ok, now how do you change retraction? The settings for retraction is done in your slicer, in Cura, for example, you have to go in custom mode here and add the retraction settings in the Material menu, with the little gear next to it. And then search for retraction, and add the ‘Enable Retraction’ and ‘Retraction Distance’ settings. Normally the rest of the settings should be fine. Maybe you could also add ‘Retraction Speed.'
    So that’s it, go and play with this and find the best setting for your printer.
    And please don’t be shy and leave a comment, and if you liked this video press that little thumbs up if you please.
    Thank you, and see you in the next video!

    My gear :
    Amazon US (Commissions Earned):
    Filament used PETG MG Chemicals 3D Printer model 3DP-11-ATL
    3D Printer Monoprice Select Mini V2
    Camera Sony A6300
    Sigma Lens 30mm F1.4
    Neewer 7" Field Monitor
    Neewer Accessories
    SanDisk Extreme 64GB SDXC UHS-I Card
    Manfrotto Compact Tripod
    IMDEN Omnidirectional Condenser Lavalier Microphone
    Amazon Canada (Commissions Earned):
    Filament used PETG MG Chemicals
    3D Printer model 3DP-11-ATL
    3D Printer Monoprice Select Mini V2
    Camera Sony A6300 Kit
    Sigma Lens 30mm F1.4
    Neewer 7" Field Monitor
    Neewer Accessories
    SanDisk Extreme 64GB SDXC UHS-I Card
    Manfrotto Compact Tripod
    IMDEN Omnidirectional Condenser Lavalier Microphone
    Hi, I'm Frank my channel is all about 3D printing. I can't get enough of my 3D printer. I make everything and anything out of 3D filament (PLA, PETG and more). As I say a printer that is not printing is a missed opportunity.
    I'll be doing electronics, mechanics, computer engineering, DIY, reviews and tutorials.
    I update twice a week on Tuesday and Saturdays.
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Comments • 180

  • Cezary Goździk
    Cezary Goździk Day ago +1

    Hi, great video! BUT. I have bigger problem. my retraction setting almost does'nt work.
    You did'nt tell about the travel speed, travel acceleration, jerk, ext. acceleration. What about this parameters?
    My setting are, pretty well setted up, but still have oozing. hundreds of prints, and still the same, changing retraction distance or speed do almost any results.

    • Frank's 3D shop
      Frank's 3D shop  Day ago

      HI, for the speed 25-30mm/s is about right, if you still get oozing check your extrusion calibration I have a video on this and if you have printed a lot, I suggest trying a new nozzle it gets larger during normal use and can lead to oozing, also if you print with glow in the dark or filament with wood or metal in it, you need to use a hardened nozzle because those are really abrasive.

  • Piezza
    Piezza 23 days ago


  • Kostas Doulas
    Kostas Doulas Month ago +1

    You should have told us what are the best settings according to your opinion....I mean actual numbers

    • Frank's 3D shop
      Frank's 3D shop  29 days ago

      Hi, since it is different from printer to printer and at the time presets for popular printers were scarce. For reference it is around 1 mm for direct drive printers, and 5 mm and more for Bowden tube printer and depends on the length of the tube...

  • Leslie Tsang
    Leslie Tsang Month ago +1

    Good video!!!!!!
    Apart from retraction Distance, any effect by adjusting travel speed and Z Hop when retracted?

    • Frank's 3D shop
      Frank's 3D shop  Month ago

      Yes and no, Z Hop can help but it adds time, moving really slow on moves would also impact this.

  • Sadık Ahmet Canan
    Sadık Ahmet Canan 2 months ago +1

    Thank u for the information 👍🏻😁

  • wilddragonbeautiful
    wilddragonbeautiful 3 months ago +2

    I'm getting the lovely combination of not enough retraction and too much at the same time. I'm at my wits end. no settings seem to be right. its been a year :(

    • Frank's 3D shop
      Frank's 3D shop  3 months ago

      Hi, first calibrate extrusion than if you have a bowden tube feeding the extruder use 5 to 8 mm at 30mm/s of retraction, if it’s a direct drive extruder use 1mm or less of retraction at 30mm/s, than the temperature influence also the stringing, try 200C and if you have stringing, lower it by 5 degrees at a time down to 190 minimum. Bad PLA can also cause some problems, here in Canada I get good results with Amz3D PLA.

  • Jason Zacarias
    Jason Zacarias 3 months ago +1

    4:21 CooOOoL!

  • tantam id
    tantam id 3 months ago +1

    Simple and clear, thanks for the video frank.

  • Robert Avery
    Robert Avery 4 months ago +2

    That’s one reason why I’m changing out my extruder on my 10s Pro. Even though I’m having good settings on retraction ... the filament is slipping in the extruder. Took me a while to figure it out ... but their extruder is going by ... by. Later

    • Frank's 3D shop
      Frank's 3D shop  4 months ago

      I like the E3D extruders, they are some of the bests in my option.

  • felix beaudry
    felix beaudry 4 months ago +1


  • James Nelson
    James Nelson 4 months ago +1

    That space ship is awesome!!! I vant vone! Where can I haz?

  • Pablo Vitalone
    Pablo Vitalone 4 months ago

    Hi Frank, wich are the settings that you use for retraction for the monoprice mini V2?. Thanks for the videos.

  • Paul McCrave
    Paul McCrave 5 months ago

    Is it possible to print 1 tower at a time instead of the 2 at once?

    • Frank's 3D shop
      Frank's 3D shop  5 months ago

      Yes there is a setting in most slicer to print on at a time if you have room for the head not to bump the first one, you have to tell the slicer the space needed

  • rc zone
    rc zone 5 months ago

    Retraction is my main issue, i am also using CURA with creality ender 3 printer, what should my settings?
    Kindly suggest me.

  • 游董
    游董 6 months ago +1

    cool! haha

  • Steven Sicard
    Steven Sicard 6 months ago +1

    Petite question. J'ai des problèmes de stringing, a quel valeur devrais-je commencer mes tests et à combien j'ajoute a chaque test? La vitesse de rétraction devrait rester à 40? Merci!

    • Frank's 3D shop
      Frank's 3D shop  6 months ago

      Salut, tout dépends de l’imprimante, pour une « direct drive » comme une Prusa, 25mm/s et une rétraction le 1mm est un bon départ, pour une imprimante avec un tube de teflon, 25mm/s et 5mm de rétraction est un bon départ, plus le tube est long, plus la rétraction devra augmenter. Aussi la température peux affecter le stringing 200 degrés et moins est un bon début. Finalement les quelques options dans les différents logiciel de « slicer » peuvent aider à prévenir le stringing, « Combing » et « Retract on Z change » sont les principales et vont augmenter le temps d’impression. Personnellement j’utilise une fonction avancé de Marlin appelé « Linear Advance » qui permet d’annuler la pression positive dans le nez en avance d’un changement de direction. Aussi une calibration d’extrusion parfaites est nécessaire.

  • Tuxu HDS
    Tuxu HDS 7 months ago +2

    I am sorry to say that this is not useful.
    The name of the Video should be "Where to find Retraction Settings only in Cura"
    I can find the menu on my own... a video about different materials like PLA,ABS, PETG and Nylon would have been what I'd hope to find here.

  • Dessin-Infographie 2D/3D
    Dessin-Infographie 2D/3D 7 months ago +1

    Thank you from France !

  • Work Peaceful
    Work Peaceful 7 months ago +1

    this is Art from machine lol

  • plazma
    plazma 8 months ago +1

    what about petg if stringing lower retrarinton or higher ?

    • plazma
      plazma 8 months ago

      @Frank's 3D shop i have ender 3 bowden but if i print petg perfect im movin to the DD ,

    • Frank's 3D shop
      Frank's 3D shop  8 months ago +1

      Is your printer direct drive or with a Bowden tube ? If it’s a direct drive, try 1mm or 0.8mm

    • plazma
      plazma 8 months ago +1

      @Frank's 3D shop im trying to figure out printing esun petg, cant solve retreaction problem with stringing, r.distance lower to 6.5 to 4 and speed 30mm/s in cura 235-250C not solved yet but im keep goin differrnt options, esteps and flow rate calibrated , thank you for response

    • Frank's 3D shop
      Frank's 3D shop  8 months ago +1

      There is a little stringing with PETG but it goes away easily, be sure to calibrate extrusion also... Retraction should be the same with the correct temperature.

  • John Powell
    John Powell 8 months ago +2

    Perfect explanation and so easy to understand and by showing the results I just found my problem.

  • Alfredo Antonio Martinez
    Alfredo Antonio Martinez 8 months ago +1

    This is one of the most simplest and usefull tutorials about retraction, and I agree with orbitalair, there is alot of people talking about the retraction in one direction ( not enought ) but this is equal important about to not exceed, and you shows excellent, thanks man! best regards from Buenos Aires, Argentina.

  • Christopher Dignard
    Christopher Dignard 8 months ago +1

    à quoi sert le "retraction speed" si on n'y touche pas?

    • Frank's 3D shop
      Frank's 3D shop  8 months ago

      Pour ma part j’ai activer dans Marlin le Linear Advance, ça a éliminé tout les fils restants... Ça peut-être la température si elle est très élevé, j’utilise 200 pour du PLA et 240 pour du PETG

    • Christopher Dignard
      Christopher Dignard 8 months ago

      @Frank's 3D shop merci pour ta réponse!! j'ai une imprimante Thunder.. similaire à la CR-10S pro.. je crois que a 40 c'est le standard.. je me demandais, lorsqu'il reste des "toile d'arraigner", je doit jouer avec la retraction distance seulement? ou c'est plutot avec la temperature que je vais ajuster? car les tour on l'air belle, mais seulement quelque petit fil d'ange reste..

    • Frank's 3D shop
      Frank's 3D shop  8 months ago +1

      Salut, elle n’a pas beaucoup d’influence, si elle est trop lente le plastique va avoir le temps de couler, si elle est trop rapide il y a un risque que le moteur saute un coche... Si tu imprime plus rapidement il faudra surement l’augmenter à un certain moment. Entre 25mm/s et 40mm/s pour des imprimantes style Prusa i3 est sans problème.

  • Niccster10
    Niccster10 9 months ago +1

    Thank you for these examples. when i did custom retraction i put too much retraction on and had no idea why it was so brittle. Now its perfect

  • Daniel Malo
    Daniel Malo 9 months ago +1

    Did no one else notice what happened at 2:18? He caught the tower with the base :v

  • Steeve Rioux
    Steeve Rioux 9 months ago +1

    thanks for this now im printing better!!

  • How to do it
    How to do it 10 months ago +3

    Thank's man this fixed all of my problems that I was thinking was extrusion problem

  • id
    id 10 months ago +2

    cool video, thank you

  • Shotgun Bear
    Shotgun Bear 10 months ago

    Is 0mm retraction distance the same thing is un-checking "enable retraction" ?

  • Luis Guzman
    Luis Guzman 10 months ago +1


  • 박설bina
    박설bina 10 months ago

    Thank u so much for the helpful info. ! !
    If anybody can help me with my problem tho, I am printing hydrogel with air pressure based extruder and printing simple shapes like a cylinder.
    The thing is that the initial amount of extrusion when the pressure starts to apply and the rest of the extrusion amount as air pressure valve stays open.
    Can I solve this problem with ooze settings like common PLA printing settings?

  • R C
    R C 10 months ago

    No way.... 😂😂😂😂😂
    Nice video,but the essence is missing.whoever clicks on this video surely knows hot to activate ret set,just a thought...

  • flymeetspaddle
    flymeetspaddle 10 months ago

    i wish you said what settings you used for the middle string test that turned out really nice.

    • Frank's 3D shop
      Frank's 3D shop  10 months ago

      On the Monoprice mini I use 4 mm of retraction at 25 mm/s

  • Christophe Lovis
    Christophe Lovis 10 months ago +1

    Very good video!

  • Martin Ezequiel dos Santos

    Hello, i have a question. Could it be that the retraction settings are too high and that's causing my extruder to jam in the extrusion wheel?

    • Martin Ezequiel dos Santos
      Martin Ezequiel dos Santos 11 months ago

      @Frank's 3D shop and keeps jamming inside that plastic box sometimes is in the wheel inside(not the filament driver)

    • Martin Ezequiel dos Santos
      Martin Ezequiel dos Santos 11 months ago

      @Frank's 3D shop
      Mine looks like this:

    • Frank's 3D shop
      Frank's 3D shop  11 months ago

      If it’s a direct drive, it should be around 1mm if it has a Bowden tube with the extruder wheel away from the print head, it should be between 4-8mm, it should not jam the extrusion if it’s 10mm or less on either Setup. You could have a partial clog, you can try a cold pull to clear that up. I have a couple of videos on that

  • svtcontour
    svtcontour 11 months ago +1

    Excellent videos as always!

  • Michael Terry
    Michael Terry 11 months ago +1

    Hello Frank how can I download this print so I can practice I'm very new and you have helped a lot.

    • id
      id 10 months ago

      look at description
      thank me later

  • Raymond Monk
    Raymond Monk 11 months ago

    Thanks for nothing

  • DirkaDirka07
    DirkaDirka07 11 months ago +2

    What about retraction speed? How do you determine the optimal setting for that?

    • Frank's 3D shop
      Frank's 3D shop  11 months ago +2

      I would start at 25mm/s you can go higher as long as the stepper motor does not skip, usually for most printer it’s around 20-40 mm/s

  • J Drake
    J Drake Year ago +1

    Does this include extra stringiness from such as PETG?

    • Frank's 3D shop
      Frank's 3D shop  Year ago

      Hi, I did not see any difference between PETG and PLA, if you have a long tube bringing the filament to the hot end, just prime the nozzle before starting a print it will compensate for the stringiness, generally the longer the tube, the longer the retraction you need.

  • Lux771
    Lux771 Year ago +7

    sa sens le quebec en criss j'aime vrm sa

  • RC Kid
    RC Kid Year ago

    I have a Monoprice Select Mini V1. I tried doing what you said to do, but looking at the printer, it doesn't look like it is actually pulling filament back in. Any ideas? Thanks.

    • RC Kid
      RC Kid Year ago +1

      Frank's 3D shop ok, thanks!

    • Frank's 3D shop
      Frank's 3D shop  Year ago

      Hi it could be a setting in your slicer, the printer is able to go both ways for sure...

  • Andrew Downey
    Andrew Downey Year ago

    I assume that I need to re adjust if I change layer heights and or print print speed.
    Should I have combing off/on

    • Frank's 3D shop
      Frank's 3D shop  Year ago

      Hi, retraction is only affected by the size of the extruder gears, layer height as no effect on it your slicer will compensate. Combing is good in my experience, it could make for a longer print time depending on the model, it is not nescessary if you have linear advance active and adjusted.

  • hen van
    hen van Year ago +1

    Hi Frank, Hello from Australia. I have recently purchased the Ender3 Pro and am getting to know it, I am new to 3d printing. I am using PLA+ and am getting a perfect print but with extremely fine stringing, almost like a spiders web. The poles are perfect, have tried changing temps up to 215 with the same results. Also tried changing the quality but settled on .15mm. Retract at 5 and 40mm. Have changed the .4 nozzle for a new one with same results. Am I expecting to much from my machine.

    • Frank's 3D shop
      Frank's 3D shop  Year ago

      Hi! I would check if the extrusion is calibrated like in this video also verify that you have no extrusion multiplier in your slicer. If you use Cura you can also play with the Combing settings. Hope it helps.

  • posceve
    posceve Year ago +1

    Cura VS Simplify 3d it's like the difference beetwen Mac and PC!

    • Frank's 3D shop
      Frank's 3D shop  Year ago +1

      Yes it could be, I now see the differences more clearly after using Simply3D exclusively for the last couple of months...

  • dejannabarbari juhej

    liked the video, liked the beard, subscribed! :)

  • M. Clean
    M. Clean Year ago +1

    Bravo Frank! Merci beaucoup pour cette excellente video!

  • F Huber
    F Huber Year ago +4

    I like the one with the stringing... its pretty.

  • KiR-3d
    KiR-3d Year ago

    I still can't understand is Retraction Extra Prime a good feature for rigid plastics? How is it vs Coasting or it can be used in the combination? The Ultimaker's doc says just few phrases about this feature. Is the positive stays to suck in the filament or it need to be set to -0.** value?

  • Jano 1
    Jano 1 Year ago +3

    The one with stringing problems looks like a chinese wall

    • F Huber
      F Huber Year ago

      Or a 28mm scale chain link fence (that kids have been climbing over)

  • Daniel Dandan
    Daniel Dandan Year ago +1

    hello everybody. I am getting good results with more than 11mm of retraction at 100m/s. that is normal? the bodwell tube has 400mm.

    • Frank's 3D shop
      Frank's 3D shop  Year ago

      Hi, yes the longer the tube, the long the retraction so that the slack inside the tube is taken out before releasing pressure in the nozzle. 100mm/s seems a little fast, If it works than all is good, if not go down to half of that.

  • watahyahknow
    watahyahknow Year ago +1

    cool idea to test a new (unknown) batch of filament before printing the bigger object
    seen another test for the hot end heat and the bed heat , with all three you should be able to set everything up the right way first try
    wonder if the enclosed chamber volcano hot ends and 750 watt bed heaters are actually needed (though a inproved fan cooler for the print might actually help make sharper corners )

    • Frank's 3D shop
      Frank's 3D shop  Year ago

      Hi, for sharp corners the new Linear Advance mode of Marlin does a beautiful job.

  • Send It RC
    Send It RC Year ago +1

    Whenever I click the boxes the settings don't pop up please help

    • Frank's 3D shop
      Frank's 3D shop  Year ago

      Hi, oh yes if you have chosen a particular printer some settings can be blocked, mine was done from scratch.

    • Send It RC
      Send It RC Year ago

      @Frank's 3D shop I figured it out now I was getting a error when I tried to add the settings and it said this setting is blocked by gcode flavour, but then watching other videos I found where I can change my gcode flavour to add more settings thank you

    • Frank's 3D shop
      Frank's 3D shop  Year ago

      Hi, I did respond to you a couple of days ago but I not see it, what do you mean by pop up?

  • davidtriune
    davidtriune Year ago +1

    thank you. i kept wondering why my brand new expensive extruder (titan aero) kept looking so bad, like the third one. it was driving me nuts. but now i know why!

  • Maleboligia
    Maleboligia Year ago +1

    Thank you, simple yet effective. Much appreciated!

  • Andy Taylor
    Andy Taylor Year ago +1

    Really grateful for your examples.
    I dont suppose you have a video on how speed of retraction is related etc. I.e the 3 adjustables you added.

    • Frank's 3D shop
      Frank's 3D shop  Year ago

      Hi, no I do not have a video on that, but speed is less of an issue, between 25 and 40 mm/s seems good for PLA on either Bowden or direct feed extruder.

  • Manoj Chaware
    Manoj Chaware Year ago +1

    Nice video Frank. I am using flsun f3 printer and having same problem.. and use slic3r can you suggest setting for the same??

    • Frank's 3D shop
      Frank's 3D shop  Year ago

      Hi, since you have a bowden tube feeding the hot end, setting should around 4-10 mm/s from my experience.

  • Matt Baker
    Matt Baker Year ago +1

    Great Video Frank. Going to Calibrate strings out of this parameter now!

  • IKnow AGuy
    IKnow AGuy Year ago +1

    Thank you very much for this video!

  • Suso Mora
    Suso Mora Year ago +1

    Great videos Frank! From the first video I watched from your channel it was obvious to me that you know what you're talking about. Keep them coming!